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    Friday, January 10, 2014

    Make it beautiful: how the fashion industry is giving tech a hand












    For the fashion-conscious, wearable gadgets are currently not
    wearable. But at CES 2014, fashion moguls and global tech authorities
    are finally chatting about how to fix that problem. Design as a function
    isn't a new idea, but the fashion industry thinks about it differently —
    and the tech industry is starting to listen.


    On Monday, Intel shared
    the stage with Barneys New York, the Council of Fashion Designers of
    America, and Opening Ceremony as they announced a collaboration between
    the fashion industry and the tech industry to make wearables more
    beautiful as they become more ubiquitous. That, Barneys New York COO
    Daniella Vitale says, is more opportunity than challenge. "One of the
    greatest opportunities for wearable technology as a concept to be
    successful is fairly simple," she said. "Design a beautiful accessory
    that our customers would desire."


    Vitale mentioned nothing
    about functionality, connectivity, or specs. She knows while design can
    aid functionality by helping a product do what it was made to do, it can
    also be a function. Fashion isn’t about specs and features, it’s about
    aesthetic and personality — how something looks, how it looks on you,
    and how it makes you feel when you're wearing it. "The things we wear
    are personal reflections of ourselves," said Ayse Ildeniz, vice
    president of business development and strategy for Intel's New Devices
    Group. "We somehow get emotionally connected to them." With the way
    wearables are designed today, they do not evoke the same personal
    attachment as, say, a Ferragamo blazer or J Brand pants. Wearables say
    "look at me, I'm tech-savvy" rather than "look at me, I'm fashionable."

    Metawatch-1020-2



    But things are changing.
    There are clear examples at CES that tech companies are starting to
    think about fashion and design. The
    Netatmo June bracelet is made with Louis Vuitton and Camille Toupet-designed jewels that tracks your sun exposure. There’s also the MetaWatch,
    designed by ex-Fossil engineers and made with premium metals and
    classic leather wristbands. But the most noteworthy wearable at CES was
    the
    Pebble Steel smartwatch.
    It’s designed to be worn with either a stainless steel band or a
    genuine leather strap, forgoing the ostentatious sportiness of the
    original for a modern, sleek look. Pebble designer Steve Johns said that
    the new design was influenced by both traditional watches and modern
    technology like cellphones — a balance that’s previously proven elusive,
    but that Pebble is quickly finding.


    Traditional and modern design can make fashionable devices


    Pebble knows it needs to
    be fashionable to stay relevant in the wearable market (not to mention
    staying competitive among wristwatches), but Johns says that sometimes
    technology lags behind what’s required to fit beautiful designs. "It
    seems to me that designers don't have any challenges designing beautiful
    concepts," Johns says, "but most of the time the technology is never
    mature enough to meet those demands. But wearables are a growing
    industry so I can see the manufacturers making it more of a priority to
    design into small devices."


    Designers are also making it a
    priority to reach out to tech companies to put their stamps on gadgets.
    FitBit announced a collaboration with Tory Burch to make fashionable
    necklaces and bracelets for its activity-tracking devices — and Burch
    approached FitBit, not the other way around. Unfortunately, only a
    prototype is ready right now, but even if the finished product isn’t
    available yet, it’s yet another example of how fashion professionals
    know that they can contribute to technology using their design eyes, and
    how eager they are to do so. It’s also another way for designers to
    reach out to new customers who might have never purchased one of their
    regular accessories. On the tech side, wearable companies now don't have
    to focus on perfecting the basics; they can take the time to make
    pieces of beauty that are also functional gadgets.


    "Designers
    don't have any challenges designing beautiful concepts, but most of the
    time the technology is never mature enough to meet those demands."


    Collaboration or not,
    it’s really the mentality of the tech industry and consumers that must
    change — and it is changing, slowly. Aesthetics may have moved up on the
    priority lists of gadget companies, but tech specs still rule. For all
    its good looks, what’s most celebrated about the
    Pebble Steel
    is what the watch does. If tech companies and consumers can start
    thinking about aesthetics the same way they think about specs, it’ll
    open up a new range of opportunities for fashion-forward devices.
    There's no reason why wearables still look like "wearables" — they
    should be Vacheron Constantin watches, Tiffany bracelets, and Warby
    Parker glasses.

    Vho_128_pebble_steel_still



    That was the sentiment
    expressed by Intel’s fashion partners this week. "I think a lot of the
    functionalities are going to be very appealing, but I do think that the
    design element will be very paramount," said Matthew Woolsey, SVP of
    digital for Barneys New York, at a CES panel this week. "The quality of
    the design speaks to us first, and I think it speaks to our customer
    first, so I think that achieving on the design will allow the customer
    to start to build that emotional relationship in a way that maybe hasn’t
    happened yet with wearable technology."


    "What we’re looking for
    is to emphasize the technological aspects of the piece, but to make
    something that doesn’t feel like a piece of hardware," agreed a
    representative from Opening Ceremony. "[Something] that feels like a
    piece of jewelry or a covetable object in and of itself that we’ll be
    excited to wear." Specs and features have historically been the
    technology industry’s primary targets, and even something like the
    Pebble Steel clearly prioritizes its functionality. It’s clear that that
    will have to change if wearables are to take off outside their most
    obvious demographics.


    Variation in design is crucial for successful fashion


    A greater level of
    variation in design is also crucial for smart fashion to be successful.
    Now, if something is a hit, everyone wants it, lots of people buy it,
    and with so many people wearing the same thing good design becomes a
    commodity. For fashion, an industry that places so much value on
    originality, that's a huge problem. If everyone wears the same shirt,
    eventually we'll all look the same — and being the "same" is equivalent
    to fashion death.


    This is where the tech
    industry can do what it does best: innovate. It’s gotten to the point
    where technology companies have innovated with wearables so much that
    the standard is pretty accessible; it’s relatively easy to make a fairly
    decent wearable now. Not all technologies can match all great designs
    yet, and vise versa, but the talks between technologists and designers
    will speed that process up. And if technology can be distilled down to
    its purest form so it can be applied to any accessory or piece of
    clothing, that will be the gateway the fashion industry needs to do what
    it does best — make it look good. Make it beautiful. Make it work.


    Sam Byford contributed to this report.

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